Mexico is seductive. Even though I've been cursed with Montezuma's Revenge since we got to this country (with the exception of the last two days), I love being here. We definitely plan to get back and discover other regions. In this trip, we will settle for a taste of the Yucatan and Chiapas.
Merida, the Yucatan's capital, is one of the coolest cities we've ever explored, like Guatemala's Antigua on a grander scale. Merida could have been the creation of a magical realist: perpetual celebration and the conquest-era buildings (constructed out of pieces from Maya pyramids) feel reminiscient of 100 Years of Solitude. The people we've met have been really kind, patient and friendly. Everyone we have asked for help has gone out of their way to lead us to our destination or explain a custom that is new to us, in slowwww Spanish (mas despacio por favor). So many kind, kind people have told us we look so much younger than 28. We tell them how tall they are.
At Plaza Grande, vendors hock tacos, roasted corn, ice cream, clothing, and souvenirs during the all-day fairs on Saturday and Sunday. Every Thursday night, at Parque Colonial Los Heroes next to Santa Lucia (for 40 years!), the city enjoys Serenata Yucateca. We attended #2,251, where Trio Los Andariegos performed a few ballads and Ballet Juvenil del Ayuntamiento de Merida demonstrated traditional dance. There was even a Declamador, who delivered something between a poem and an oracion, of which we understood approximately 65%.
We were surprised to see that men on stage wear heels. It seems to be a popular choice for entertainers.
To be entirely honest, our introduction into Mexico was through Playa del Carmen (with a brief stop at Chetumal, which was pretty cool). Playa-- though not as obnoxious as Cancun-- may as well be the U.S. (Note: There are at least 3 Starbucks on Quinza Ave.) The beaches were beautiful, the church was lovely, and it's a great getaway for people who want to stay close to home, but we tired of it after just a couple of days. Though there were hundreds of people around, nearly all of whom spoke English, we felt isolated and unable to connect.
To be entirely honest, our introduction into Mexico was through Playa del Carmen (with a brief stop at Chetumal, which was pretty cool). Playa-- though not as obnoxious as Cancun-- may as well be the U.S. (Note: There are at least 3 Starbucks on Quinza Ave.) The beaches were beautiful, the church was lovely, and it's a great getaway for people who want to stay close to home, but we tired of it after just a couple of days. Though there were hundreds of people around, nearly all of whom spoke English, we felt isolated and unable to connect.
On our way to Merida, we dropped in for a few hours at Chichen Itza-- which was fairly disappointing after experiencing Tikal. The ruins almost became secondary to the hundreds of vendors selling cheap souvenirs, and none of the temples could be climbed. Still, the Great Pyramid was an incredible sight. The coolest thing we saw, though, was a snake chasing a lizard up a tree. It moved too fast to capture on film.
Rosalba (59), a Couchsurfer host, took us in on Thursday (for free, of course). She is very sweet, hardworking, generous & fun. An hour after we arrived, she took us for a tour of the city (and then to the program at Santa Lucia). We instantly felt at home and comfortable with her. Trevor, an American who was born in England, is also staying in the house. He has been travelling solo since Seattle, planning to drive his motorcycle all the way down to Panama.
Rosalba and her daughters, Andrea and Gabriela, her granddaughter Aileen, and four dogs live below their family-run/woman-operated business Rosaltoner. Right now, we are staying in Aileen's bedroom, which is pink and populated by Barbies. It's great to be in a house with pets and kids, even though the dogs are a bit Jekyll and Hyde. Lola, the dachsund puppy, just celebrated her first birthday (Aileen wanted Rosalba to make a cake). Aquiles, one of the three sheepdogs, is our bestest friend during daylight hours, but becomes ferocious at night. Griselda follows suit, but Rufino is so old he couldn't be bothered. Being hosted by a family is so much more rewarding than staying in an anonymous hostel. Conversations are much richer, if confusing at times, and Rosalba's family offers all kinds of advice on where to go and what to see.
Rosalba and her daughters, Andrea and Gabriela, her granddaughter Aileen, and four dogs live below their family-run/woman-operated business Rosaltoner. Right now, we are staying in Aileen's bedroom, which is pink and populated by Barbies. It's great to be in a house with pets and kids, even though the dogs are a bit Jekyll and Hyde. Lola, the dachsund puppy, just celebrated her first birthday (Aileen wanted Rosalba to make a cake). Aquiles, one of the three sheepdogs, is our bestest friend during daylight hours, but becomes ferocious at night. Griselda follows suit, but Rufino is so old he couldn't be bothered. Being hosted by a family is so much more rewarding than staying in an anonymous hostel. Conversations are much richer, if confusing at times, and Rosalba's family offers all kinds of advice on where to go and what to see.
On Friday, Sara and I explored the city, did a little shopping, viewed the amazing esqueletos featured in storefronts. Sara even learned how to play the saw (one song, anyway). When we returned home, Rosalba invited us to a fiesta, which we thought was happening downtown. Instead, we pulled up to a dark house accented by orange balloons. Three guys stood to greet us, and we thought for a moment that we were joining a family gathering. Not until we saw the flyer on the table did we understand that it was a Couchsurfers' party. Turns out, there's a pretty active Couchsurfing community in Merida, and everyone who turned up for the fiesta was connected to the site.
Couchsurfing is really your style. Meeting new locals, and really seein how they live would be the avenue i would pick. I enjoy getting to know the locals where ever I go, hence my 45 year relationship with an Old Order Amish women. Sounds like you could enjoy a pen pal relationship with those girls just to follow their life a little.
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